New York?

"New York, New York" - so good they named it after a place in England

Friday 11th January

We left for the airport with a taxi-driver who was determined to talk about just every aspect of the Chilean economy. Not too bad, but he did it in Spanish.

At Santiago, it was slow to board, but we eventually got off just before midnight.

After a night of fitful sleep, we arrived in New York, got through immigration, packed off our luggage, and caught a taxi into town. We bought a trip on a tour bus, thought the weather was cold and there was a mist. The guide, who was obviously an aficionado of New York architecture, had to keep apologising as the key buildings disappeared into the clouds. (His joke was that someone had stolen the Empire State Building the night previous.)

The gorrilla's in the mist!

We saw Times Square, Broadway, Greenwich Village, Madison Square Gardens, Wall Street, the bottom of the Empire State and Woolworth buildings, Soho, Little Italy and Chinatown, as well as “Ground Zero.”

"Ground Zero"

We couldn’t be bothered to get off the bus to see the Statue of Liberty, but luckily there was a miniature version at JFK airport so we don’t feel we missed out.

Joan got off the bus because she wanted to see the Seagram building on Park Avenue, but she could not remember what it looked like. (It is famous for its Philip Johnson designed restaurant, which originally was going to be decorated with Mark Rothko murals which now are in Tate Modern. Hence “Rothko”, the most evil and beloved Dalmatian.)

Both not the Seagram building

We were told off by a security guard who told us off for trying to photograph another building from his plaza. On Park Avenue there are lots of yellow taxis, like in films.

We took lunch in a French bistro, but we couldn’t quite shake off speaking Spanish.

In general, we weren’t that taken with New York. The skyscrapers are oppressive, and the people are a tad too loud!!

We managed a shot of the Empire State from our yellow taxi back to the airport. The taxi driver had to wake us both when we arrived, as we were so riveted by the city.

The plane to Stansted was empty, very empty. We each had a whole row to sleep on. We bought a couple of drinks and then the hostess gave us a freebie (maybe because we had bought some Chanel no 5).

Back at Stansted, Ken picked us up and ran us home.

We slept well, and were awakened by breakfast.

Santiago

Saturday 15th December

After breakfast we headed over to the cable car which ascends Cerro San Christobal. Lots of locals go up there for picnics at weekends and there were loads of family groups heading up with cool boxes and folding chairs. The ascent in the cable car was quite breath taking. Neither of us took any photos as we were hanging on for dear life. The views of the city were amazing…take our word for it.

At the top there is the Sanctuario del Virgen, an open air church topped by a statue of Our Lady.

There were also some lazy Chilean dogs, lying in the shade.

We descended down on an open funicular railways car. The funicular opened in 1925, is 485 m long at an incline of 45/48 degrees. We travelled in good company as His Holiness Pope John Paul II visited Cerro San Christobal in 2000.

Then we walked alongside Rio Mapocho on the Parque Foresta, where there are lots of sculptures, including this impressive bronze fountain (not in water). It was given by the German Colony to celebrate the Centenary of Chilean independence. The condor at the rear symbolises the Chilean people about to take flight.

The German Colony or Colonia Dignidad had a rather unpleasant history. See the link below:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/4340591.stm

We then went down to the Mercado Central, which is an indoor market full it seems of every type of dead fish. (Photos to follow as they are on film not digital)

We then went to the Plazas de Armes and walked down the Paseo Ahumada, which is Chile’s equivalent to Las Ramblas in Barcelona. There were human statues of a miner and somebody in chains. They must have been sweltering in their costumes and greasepaint.

Caught the Metro (underground) back. It costs $760 which is about 90p for us both. Ken Livingstone, eat your heart out!!

In the evening, we went for a walk around Providencia before heading back to El Heurto restaurant, which as you can see from the picture was heaving. (Chileans, like Spaniards, eat after 10 pm.)

Today we have managed to do just about everything in Spanish, which we are proud about.

We've reached Santiago

Friday 14th December

More plane trouble. Boarding was late at Miami, and took ages. Then as we sat on the tarmac, the temperature in the cabin began to rise rapidly. The Captain came on the tannoy and explained there was a fault, and we had to wait for maintenance. They arrived quickly, the fault was “fixed” and we set of to taxi to the runway.

Ten minutes later we were back outside the terminal as the fault had reoccurred. After quite a long time roasting, the Captain let us off the plane into a now closed airport to cool down. Eventually we set off about 2 ½ hours late and had the bizarre experience off eating dinner at 3 am Miami time.

Arrived in Chile about 11:45 local time and caught a cab down to Providencia. The temperature was 26 deg C, in comparison with the heavy frost at home. The days are lengthening too and it is the longest day next week.

When we came last time we sat for hours and watched battered yellow buses competing for trade along the busy avenue. Some had their destinations chalked on the front, others had seen better days. There were thousands of them, hustling along. Sasly, it has all changed. The guide book says because of the number of accidents and mortalities. They have been replaced with modern white and green bendy buses. They still compete for trade, but it is not as manic.

We had lunch on the street, near to the Hotel Torremeyor where we stayed on honeymoon. Quite a few beggars approached us, which we don’t recall from last time. On the streets they are selling tinsel, Santa hats and other Xmas stuff, and the shops are decorated with Xmas trees and snowflakes. An odd juxtaposition in the sweltering heat.

At the end of each street you can see the Andes, and snow covered peaks. They just dominate everything.

We are staying in at ApartHotel LaFayette on Avenida 11 Septiembre in the heart of the business sector.




It has a kitchen-diner, bedroom, balcony and the smallest bath you’ll ever see. No swinging cats in there. (See picture)

In the evening we went to El Heurto, which is the best vegetarian restaurant in Chile and only two minutes away. We went there in 2002 when we were on honeymoon.

This is the view from our balcony, looking out to Cerro San Christobal.