Funiculars, streets and dogs

Kevin

Monday 7th January

It was quite overcast initially, so we decided not to go to Vina, but to have a ride on some of the ascensors.

On the way down to the sea front, we went through some very narrow streets and had to negotiate the famous Chilean sleeping dogs.

The streets were a lot busier than yesterday (Sunday), and many more of the shops were open.

When we arrived in Santiago, we were sorry to see that there was not the mad rush of buses on the street. However here there are still loads of old buses, that whizz down the narrow streets. There are trolley buses as well.

We caught the Ascensor Artilleria up to the naval museum. Here from a café overlooking the sea, we watched lorries and cranes moving about cargo containers. It was a bit like manipulating a Rubik cube. Also in the harbour was a big cruise liner.

Ascensor Artilleria

Another nameless lift

Back down again, we moved on to Ascensor El Paral, which you go through a building to reach. It took us up to Cerro Allegre and Cerro Concepcion, where you can do a walking tours to see the brightly painted houses. The Palacio Baburizza was the most elaborate, built in 1916 by a nitrate baron.

Ascensor El Paral

Palacio Baburizza

We had a drink at Café Turri, and watched the boats out in the bay.

As time was getting on er descended Ascensor La Concecion and headed to Bambu, the vegetarian restaurant. Unfortunately it was open. We should have known better when half the things we wanted were not available. We both received brown, cold, inedible masses, and Joan got warm water in a dirty glass. We didn’t stay!!

Instead we headed back up to Turri Café, where we ate a marvellous dinner on a balcony as the sun went down.

Santiago

Saturday 15th December

After breakfast we headed over to the cable car which ascends Cerro San Christobal. Lots of locals go up there for picnics at weekends and there were loads of family groups heading up with cool boxes and folding chairs. The ascent in the cable car was quite breath taking. Neither of us took any photos as we were hanging on for dear life. The views of the city were amazing…take our word for it.

At the top there is the Sanctuario del Virgen, an open air church topped by a statue of Our Lady.

There were also some lazy Chilean dogs, lying in the shade.

We descended down on an open funicular railways car. The funicular opened in 1925, is 485 m long at an incline of 45/48 degrees. We travelled in good company as His Holiness Pope John Paul II visited Cerro San Christobal in 2000.

Then we walked alongside Rio Mapocho on the Parque Foresta, where there are lots of sculptures, including this impressive bronze fountain (not in water). It was given by the German Colony to celebrate the Centenary of Chilean independence. The condor at the rear symbolises the Chilean people about to take flight.

The German Colony or Colonia Dignidad had a rather unpleasant history. See the link below:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/4340591.stm

We then went down to the Mercado Central, which is an indoor market full it seems of every type of dead fish. (Photos to follow as they are on film not digital)

We then went to the Plazas de Armes and walked down the Paseo Ahumada, which is Chile’s equivalent to Las Ramblas in Barcelona. There were human statues of a miner and somebody in chains. They must have been sweltering in their costumes and greasepaint.

Caught the Metro (underground) back. It costs $760 which is about 90p for us both. Ken Livingstone, eat your heart out!!

In the evening, we went for a walk around Providencia before heading back to El Heurto restaurant, which as you can see from the picture was heaving. (Chileans, like Spaniards, eat after 10 pm.)

Today we have managed to do just about everything in Spanish, which we are proud about.

We've reached Santiago

Friday 14th December

More plane trouble. Boarding was late at Miami, and took ages. Then as we sat on the tarmac, the temperature in the cabin began to rise rapidly. The Captain came on the tannoy and explained there was a fault, and we had to wait for maintenance. They arrived quickly, the fault was “fixed” and we set of to taxi to the runway.

Ten minutes later we were back outside the terminal as the fault had reoccurred. After quite a long time roasting, the Captain let us off the plane into a now closed airport to cool down. Eventually we set off about 2 ½ hours late and had the bizarre experience off eating dinner at 3 am Miami time.

Arrived in Chile about 11:45 local time and caught a cab down to Providencia. The temperature was 26 deg C, in comparison with the heavy frost at home. The days are lengthening too and it is the longest day next week.

When we came last time we sat for hours and watched battered yellow buses competing for trade along the busy avenue. Some had their destinations chalked on the front, others had seen better days. There were thousands of them, hustling along. Sasly, it has all changed. The guide book says because of the number of accidents and mortalities. They have been replaced with modern white and green bendy buses. They still compete for trade, but it is not as manic.

We had lunch on the street, near to the Hotel Torremeyor where we stayed on honeymoon. Quite a few beggars approached us, which we don’t recall from last time. On the streets they are selling tinsel, Santa hats and other Xmas stuff, and the shops are decorated with Xmas trees and snowflakes. An odd juxtaposition in the sweltering heat.

At the end of each street you can see the Andes, and snow covered peaks. They just dominate everything.

We are staying in at ApartHotel LaFayette on Avenida 11 Septiembre in the heart of the business sector.




It has a kitchen-diner, bedroom, balcony and the smallest bath you’ll ever see. No swinging cats in there. (See picture)

In the evening we went to El Heurto, which is the best vegetarian restaurant in Chile and only two minutes away. We went there in 2002 when we were on honeymoon.

This is the view from our balcony, looking out to Cerro San Christobal.