Tuesday, 4 January 2011
Monday, 3 January 2011
Oyu oyu, inca terraces and more baths
Having slept well, we went for breakfast, which was mainly continental with the offer of eggs.
The view from the hotel and the dining room are amazing. The hillsides are covered with Inca terracing, much of which is still farmed. Locals went by with picks and shovels on their backs, with all sorts of animals.
The owner, who has spent some time working in America, suggested that one of his team take us up the hillsides to see the pre Inca fort of Oyu oyu. Erica was a tiny little thing. Like most of the women she wore a highly embroidered hat, and warm clothing, although we thought it was warm.
We saw the irigation schemes feeding water to the terraces and crossed a bridge over the canyon. Many families, some with small kids in baskets on donkeys, were also heading up to the terraces.
In the fields, broad beans were being grown along with maize and quinoa. Many cacti lined the way, and some were in flower. Eventually we reached the Adjunto de Oyu oyu, where there was many houses based around a square. Seemingly this had been the original settlement, but when the Spanish conquistadores came they moved the settlement to the valley bottom.
We walked back down a drainage channel and Erica took us to the local pool. The thermal baths is currently shut but this was an open air pool with delightfully warm water. We messed around for a couple of hours or so before heading back to the hotel.
We{ve borrowed the owner*s computer to do the blo but the spanish keyboard is folling us, hence some odd typos in this!
Dinner will be fettucini with a spinach and cream sauce. Off for a beer next.
The view from the hotel and the dining room are amazing. The hillsides are covered with Inca terracing, much of which is still farmed. Locals went by with picks and shovels on their backs, with all sorts of animals.
The owner, who has spent some time working in America, suggested that one of his team take us up the hillsides to see the pre Inca fort of Oyu oyu. Erica was a tiny little thing. Like most of the women she wore a highly embroidered hat, and warm clothing, although we thought it was warm.
We saw the irigation schemes feeding water to the terraces and crossed a bridge over the canyon. Many families, some with small kids in baskets on donkeys, were also heading up to the terraces.
In the fields, broad beans were being grown along with maize and quinoa. Many cacti lined the way, and some were in flower. Eventually we reached the Adjunto de Oyu oyu, where there was many houses based around a square. Seemingly this had been the original settlement, but when the Spanish conquistadores came they moved the settlement to the valley bottom.
We walked back down a drainage channel and Erica took us to the local pool. The thermal baths is currently shut but this was an open air pool with delightfully warm water. We messed around for a couple of hours or so before heading back to the hotel.
We{ve borrowed the owner*s computer to do the blo but the spanish keyboard is folling us, hence some odd typos in this!
Dinner will be fettucini with a spinach and cream sauce. Off for a beer next.
Sunday, 2 January 2011
Off to Colca
Yesterday we left Arequipa and set off for the Colca Canyon, which is the second deepest in the world. Another to the north of here is 150 m deeper. It is about as twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and 100 km long.
Filling up for petrol there were good views of the three guardian volcanoes of Arequipa, Chachani, El Misti and Pichupichu. There was a curious three wheeled bike parked on the road.
The road rose swiftly out of town, and wound its way up to the altiplano. There we took photos of vicunas. The railway to Puno and Lake Titicaca ran alongside the road.
We paid a small toll to use the road which was new and metalled. Turning up towards Chivay, we came across the sign for the Sumbay caves which have ancient paintings in them. As we headed down the bumpy track another car came in our direction and the driver told us that the guardian of the cave ,usually a child, was nowhere to be found. Disappointed we turned back on to the road. We were a little nervous as the road rises to 4,900 m and there have been reports of altitude sickness in travellers. But we had acclimatised ourselves when going up to Laguna Salinas, and though at the top the air was thin we were fine. Also we were surprised to see the road was metalled all the way, despite what our Michelin map said. In the distance we could see the snowy peaks of Volcanoes Sabayancaya and Ampato.
Dropping down into Colca Canyon is spectacular. It is so deep. There were many land falls on the carriageway that we had to navigate. Way below we could see the town of Chivay.
On entrance to Colca, all foreigners have to pay a tourist tax of around 10 pounds. Whilst Joan was paying this Kevin was accosted by two small girls in local dress with a lamb and a baby llama. Photos were taken and gifts given.
Our hotel was at Yanque which is a few miles down the canyon. The Killawasi Lodge is on the edge of a small community with narrow dirt streets, and a highly decorative church. Very rustic. In contrast the hotel is modern and very smart. The rooms are large with superking size beds and balconies.
The owner spoke impeccable English and was very welcoming. He suggested things which we might do.
Further down the valley there is a viewpoint called Cruz del Condor, where at certain times of day condors glide on thermals. As it was a sunny evening we decided to drive up there. The road was wide but a dirt track. We saw many locals in traditional dress harvesting broad beans and medicinal plants. We passed many shepherds with sheep, cows, donkeys and suicidal dogs.
At the village of Maca there was a road sign saying "Falla geologico." Maca sits on a geological faultline and is subject to many earthquakes and tremors. Here the road was narrow and hastily reconstructed.
Further on we looked for "chulpas colgantes" which are Inca tombs suspended in impossible places on the top of cliffs. However as we did not know what they looked like, we did not know what to look for!
Cruz del Condor is a very touristy spot and the guidebooks say that it can be teaming with coachloads of travellers. But we had it to ourselves. However low cloud had crept in and there were no condors. Nevertheless the view to the bottom of the canyon, 1200m away was impressive enough.
On the way back many farmers were walking along the road back to the villages. Many had spades and the women had large bundles on their backs. A young woman in traditional dress with a baby wrapped up in a sling on her back, waved us down and asked for a lift to her village. Later an old couple with heavy bundles also asked for a lift and they got in the back of the pick up. We were amazed the distance they had intended to walk. The young woman was about 10 km away from home.
We let them off and the old man tried to pay us. We, naturally, refused.
A lorry was parked across the road and some lads were trying to tether cows in it.
Back at the hotel, the staff had prepared a meal of quinoa, which is a traditional Peruvian pulse, with vegetables for us. It is low season so there was only us and a canadian couple staying here. The meal was very nice.
There is no wifi here but the owner offered to lend up his lappy. As it is only on a dongle and very slow we have decided to upload photos later.
http://www.killawasilodge.com/
Filling up for petrol there were good views of the three guardian volcanoes of Arequipa, Chachani, El Misti and Pichupichu. There was a curious three wheeled bike parked on the road.
The road rose swiftly out of town, and wound its way up to the altiplano. There we took photos of vicunas. The railway to Puno and Lake Titicaca ran alongside the road.
We paid a small toll to use the road which was new and metalled. Turning up towards Chivay, we came across the sign for the Sumbay caves which have ancient paintings in them. As we headed down the bumpy track another car came in our direction and the driver told us that the guardian of the cave ,usually a child, was nowhere to be found. Disappointed we turned back on to the road. We were a little nervous as the road rises to 4,900 m and there have been reports of altitude sickness in travellers. But we had acclimatised ourselves when going up to Laguna Salinas, and though at the top the air was thin we were fine. Also we were surprised to see the road was metalled all the way, despite what our Michelin map said. In the distance we could see the snowy peaks of Volcanoes Sabayancaya and Ampato.
Dropping down into Colca Canyon is spectacular. It is so deep. There were many land falls on the carriageway that we had to navigate. Way below we could see the town of Chivay.
On entrance to Colca, all foreigners have to pay a tourist tax of around 10 pounds. Whilst Joan was paying this Kevin was accosted by two small girls in local dress with a lamb and a baby llama. Photos were taken and gifts given.
Our hotel was at Yanque which is a few miles down the canyon. The Killawasi Lodge is on the edge of a small community with narrow dirt streets, and a highly decorative church. Very rustic. In contrast the hotel is modern and very smart. The rooms are large with superking size beds and balconies.
The owner spoke impeccable English and was very welcoming. He suggested things which we might do.
Further down the valley there is a viewpoint called Cruz del Condor, where at certain times of day condors glide on thermals. As it was a sunny evening we decided to drive up there. The road was wide but a dirt track. We saw many locals in traditional dress harvesting broad beans and medicinal plants. We passed many shepherds with sheep, cows, donkeys and suicidal dogs.
At the village of Maca there was a road sign saying "Falla geologico." Maca sits on a geological faultline and is subject to many earthquakes and tremors. Here the road was narrow and hastily reconstructed.
Further on we looked for "chulpas colgantes" which are Inca tombs suspended in impossible places on the top of cliffs. However as we did not know what they looked like, we did not know what to look for!
Cruz del Condor is a very touristy spot and the guidebooks say that it can be teaming with coachloads of travellers. But we had it to ourselves. However low cloud had crept in and there were no condors. Nevertheless the view to the bottom of the canyon, 1200m away was impressive enough.
On the way back many farmers were walking along the road back to the villages. Many had spades and the women had large bundles on their backs. A young woman in traditional dress with a baby wrapped up in a sling on her back, waved us down and asked for a lift to her village. Later an old couple with heavy bundles also asked for a lift and they got in the back of the pick up. We were amazed the distance they had intended to walk. The young woman was about 10 km away from home.
We let them off and the old man tried to pay us. We, naturally, refused.
A lorry was parked across the road and some lads were trying to tether cows in it.
Back at the hotel, the staff had prepared a meal of quinoa, which is a traditional Peruvian pulse, with vegetables for us. It is low season so there was only us and a canadian couple staying here. The meal was very nice.
There is no wifi here but the owner offered to lend up his lappy. As it is only on a dongle and very slow we have decided to upload photos later.
http://www.killawasilodge.com/
Lunch mainly
After yeserday's ultra long day, we woke up feeling like we had done 15 rounds. So we decided to have a quiet day in the garden, reading and uploading photos. Unfortunately the internet in the hotel was playing up and we couldn't get photos to upload, and then we lost a whole chunk of text.
Exasperated we headed in to town for a late lunch. It was deserted. No taxis, shops shut and a few foreigners like us wandering about.
Many of the restaurants were also closed but the good restaurant we visited a few nights ago was open.
We took a table on the pavement and were bemused that the restaurant had its own security guard who we surrepticiously tried to photograph.
Smartly dressed groups walked by, many carrying beautiful displays of roses and gladioli.
We passed a few hours just watching the world go by and eavesdropping on other people's conversation. Bliss.
Exasperated we headed in to town for a late lunch. It was deserted. No taxis, shops shut and a few foreigners like us wandering about.
Many of the restaurants were also closed but the good restaurant we visited a few nights ago was open.
We took a table on the pavement and were bemused that the restaurant had its own security guard who we surrepticiously tried to photograph.
Smartly dressed groups walked by, many carrying beautiful displays of roses and gladioli.
We passed a few hours just watching the world go by and eavesdropping on other people's conversation. Bliss.
Saturday, 1 January 2011
Of policemen, shepherdesses and salt lorries
Salt deposits and Volcan Ubinas in the distance
El Misti from our hotel
Today the cloud cleared and we could finally see El Misti. We decided to go and have a look at Laguna Salinas, which is, on the map,not far from Arequipa. Usually we have used Nelles maps and they have always been detailed and remarkable, but for some reason, this time we bought a Michelin road map of Peru. Compared with Nelles, it doesn't have the delicacy of detail, and Arequipa is just a red blob with five roads converging on it.
Also, as previously mentioned, the Peruvians don't go a great deal on road signs.
Using Google maps, we managed to work out that the route to Ubinas was south east of the city. We only had a tourist map of the centre that did not include the one way system, and certainly did not run to the suburbs of the city. Still we constructed a vague plan and head off.
Kevin is unfazed by the chaotic driving displayed here, and, with the odd missed junction, we gradually inched our way out of the city. Eventually we found signs to Paucarpata, a suburb of the city, and the gateway out. It is a busy place, and there were no signs to say the way to go so we pulled up beside some policemen and asked them the way. They were charming and spoke clearl, slow spanish - go left, go right at the college, turn right at the top of the hill. We wished them Happy New Year, but then got called back. One of them who we hadn't spoken to asked where we were going, and told us to follow him. So for a few miles we had a police escort who led the way, and miraculously the traffic seemed to abate. Rising out of the edge of the town with views of El Misti volcano, he pulled over shook hands and pointed the way ahead. We'd made it out of Arequipa for the second day running!
Also, as previously mentioned, the Peruvians don't go a great deal on road signs.
Using Google maps, we managed to work out that the route to Ubinas was south east of the city. We only had a tourist map of the centre that did not include the one way system, and certainly did not run to the suburbs of the city. Still we constructed a vague plan and head off.
Kevin is unfazed by the chaotic driving displayed here, and, with the odd missed junction, we gradually inched our way out of the city. Eventually we found signs to Paucarpata, a suburb of the city, and the gateway out. It is a busy place, and there were no signs to say the way to go so we pulled up beside some policemen and asked them the way. They were charming and spoke clearl, slow spanish - go left, go right at the college, turn right at the top of the hill. We wished them Happy New Year, but then got called back. One of them who we hadn't spoken to asked where we were going, and told us to follow him. So for a few miles we had a police escort who led the way, and miraculously the traffic seemed to abate. Rising out of the edge of the town with views of El Misti volcano, he pulled over shook hands and pointed the way ahead. We'd made it out of Arequipa for the second day running!
Police escort with sheep and cows
El Misti
On our Michelin map, the village of Chiguata is clearly shown as being on the main road to the altiplano. The road is a main one running eventually up to Puno and lake Titicaca. So we were bemused when we came across a junction. The road ahead seemed to turn into a dirt track, but the road to the left was a metalled road. We took this and in a couple of miles we reached Chiguata. We drove around the main square a couple of times but the road disappeared. Eventually we turned on to the most substantial road out, along a cobbled street and came across a dust track. It was bumpy and windy, barely fit for a tractor,so we were shocked when we saw a huge lorry coming our way. This couldn't be right. We asked the lorry driver where the road to Puno was, and he seemed to say it was a long way off,above the clouds.
We continued for a couple of kilometeres and asked a local villager where the road to Puno was, and again he suggested we were on it. So we continued on this dirt track, and could see a road zigzagging high above us - improbably high - disappearing in to the clouds. Every so often a double trailered lorry would come the opposite direction and we would pull in to let them pass. This was indeed the main road to Puno. After some time we found a sign which revealed we were at 3,800 m and in the national park.
By the side of the road there was a crucifix in the clouds.
Soon we were driving in cloud and the road narrowed to a single track tunnel. Luckily we did not meet any lorries.
We had driven up the side of Volcan Pichupichu,which was swaithed in clouds, and had reached the altiplano. The air was rarified,but we didn't feel any side effects of altitude.
Volcan Pichupichu
Soon we came across Laguna Salinas, a huge salt flat.
We stopped forlunch near a herd of llams and alpacas. Within a minute an old shepherdess had appeared from a building no bigger than a garage,asking for a "present" for the children.
Further on there was a very barren settlement by the side of the laguna.
The clouds began to clear and there was a salt storage facility. In the background you could see the silhouette of Volcan Ubinas on the horizon - Peru's most active volcano. It erupted in 2006 and then again in 2010. We had read on the intenet that the locals had been complaining about the gas it was emiting - as if the local council could just switch it off!
Again, we reached a junction and there was no sign to say which way to go, so we guessed and followed a bumpier road for a short while. On a bend, near a stream, we came across a goup of vizcacha playing. (See video below.)
Also we came across a baby llama in swaddling clothes, lain by the road. We stopped for a photo and again a shepherdess appeared, For a gift she and the baby's mother posed for a photo.
It was starting to get late and the road came to an abrupt end so we decided to head back. The cloud had got lower and it was quite difficult making the descent, though the road was wide and the salt lorries had signed off for the day. By the time we got out the cloud it was dark. The road back seemed even longer.In the village of Espiritu Sanctu, locals were dancing in the roads, looking somewhat worse for wear.
Eventually back in Arequipa, the roads were as mad as ever. Somehow we negotiated our way across town to the centre where the streets were packed with revellers, taxis and traffic cops. It was nearly ten when we reached the hotel, so rather than try and find a restaurant we ordered a take away pizza and drank a warm beer. We had intended to see in the New Year, but fell asleep!
At midnight we could hear fireworks, crackers and revellers outside but we just turned over and slept.
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