Yesterday we left Arequipa and set off for the Colca Canyon, which is the second deepest in the world. Another to the north of here is 150 m deeper. It is about as twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and 100 km long.
Filling up for petrol there were good views of the three guardian volcanoes of Arequipa, Chachani, El Misti and Pichupichu. There was a curious three wheeled bike parked on the road.
The road rose swiftly out of town, and wound its way up to the altiplano. There we took photos of vicunas. The railway to Puno and Lake Titicaca ran alongside the road.
We paid a small toll to use the road which was new and metalled. Turning up towards Chivay, we came across the sign for the Sumbay caves which have ancient paintings in them. As we headed down the bumpy track another car came in our direction and the driver told us that the guardian of the cave ,usually a child, was nowhere to be found. Disappointed we turned back on to the road. We were a little nervous as the road rises to 4,900 m and there have been reports of altitude sickness in travellers. But we had acclimatised ourselves when going up to Laguna Salinas, and though at the top the air was thin we were fine. Also we were surprised to see the road was metalled all the way, despite what our Michelin map said. In the distance we could see the snowy peaks of Volcanoes Sabayancaya and Ampato.
Dropping down into Colca Canyon is spectacular. It is so deep. There were many land falls on the carriageway that we had to navigate. Way below we could see the town of Chivay.
On entrance to Colca, all foreigners have to pay a tourist tax of around 10 pounds. Whilst Joan was paying this Kevin was accosted by two small girls in local dress with a lamb and a baby llama. Photos were taken and gifts given.
Our hotel was at Yanque which is a few miles down the canyon. The Killawasi Lodge is on the edge of a small community with narrow dirt streets, and a highly decorative church. Very rustic. In contrast the hotel is modern and very smart. The rooms are large with superking size beds and balconies.
The owner spoke impeccable English and was very welcoming. He suggested things which we might do.
Further down the valley there is a viewpoint called Cruz del Condor, where at certain times of day condors glide on thermals. As it was a sunny evening we decided to drive up there. The road was wide but a dirt track. We saw many locals in traditional dress harvesting broad beans and medicinal plants. We passed many shepherds with sheep, cows, donkeys and suicidal dogs.
At the village of Maca there was a road sign saying "Falla geologico." Maca sits on a geological faultline and is subject to many earthquakes and tremors. Here the road was narrow and hastily reconstructed.
Further on we looked for "chulpas colgantes" which are Inca tombs suspended in impossible places on the top of cliffs. However as we did not know what they looked like, we did not know what to look for!
Cruz del Condor is a very touristy spot and the guidebooks say that it can be teaming with coachloads of travellers. But we had it to ourselves. However low cloud had crept in and there were no condors. Nevertheless the view to the bottom of the canyon, 1200m away was impressive enough.
On the way back many farmers were walking along the road back to the villages. Many had spades and the women had large bundles on their backs. A young woman in traditional dress with a baby wrapped up in a sling on her back, waved us down and asked for a lift to her village. Later an old couple with heavy bundles also asked for a lift and they got in the back of the pick up. We were amazed the distance they had intended to walk. The young woman was about 10 km away from home.
We let them off and the old man tried to pay us. We, naturally, refused.
A lorry was parked across the road and some lads were trying to tether cows in it.
Back at the hotel, the staff had prepared a meal of quinoa, which is a traditional Peruvian pulse, with vegetables for us. It is low season so there was only us and a canadian couple staying here. The meal was very nice.
There is no wifi here but the owner offered to lend up his lappy. As it is only on a dongle and very slow we have decided to upload photos later.
http://www.killawasilodge.com/
Filling up for petrol there were good views of the three guardian volcanoes of Arequipa, Chachani, El Misti and Pichupichu. There was a curious three wheeled bike parked on the road.
The road rose swiftly out of town, and wound its way up to the altiplano. There we took photos of vicunas. The railway to Puno and Lake Titicaca ran alongside the road.
We paid a small toll to use the road which was new and metalled. Turning up towards Chivay, we came across the sign for the Sumbay caves which have ancient paintings in them. As we headed down the bumpy track another car came in our direction and the driver told us that the guardian of the cave ,usually a child, was nowhere to be found. Disappointed we turned back on to the road. We were a little nervous as the road rises to 4,900 m and there have been reports of altitude sickness in travellers. But we had acclimatised ourselves when going up to Laguna Salinas, and though at the top the air was thin we were fine. Also we were surprised to see the road was metalled all the way, despite what our Michelin map said. In the distance we could see the snowy peaks of Volcanoes Sabayancaya and Ampato.
Dropping down into Colca Canyon is spectacular. It is so deep. There were many land falls on the carriageway that we had to navigate. Way below we could see the town of Chivay.
On entrance to Colca, all foreigners have to pay a tourist tax of around 10 pounds. Whilst Joan was paying this Kevin was accosted by two small girls in local dress with a lamb and a baby llama. Photos were taken and gifts given.
Our hotel was at Yanque which is a few miles down the canyon. The Killawasi Lodge is on the edge of a small community with narrow dirt streets, and a highly decorative church. Very rustic. In contrast the hotel is modern and very smart. The rooms are large with superking size beds and balconies.
The owner spoke impeccable English and was very welcoming. He suggested things which we might do.
Further down the valley there is a viewpoint called Cruz del Condor, where at certain times of day condors glide on thermals. As it was a sunny evening we decided to drive up there. The road was wide but a dirt track. We saw many locals in traditional dress harvesting broad beans and medicinal plants. We passed many shepherds with sheep, cows, donkeys and suicidal dogs.
At the village of Maca there was a road sign saying "Falla geologico." Maca sits on a geological faultline and is subject to many earthquakes and tremors. Here the road was narrow and hastily reconstructed.
Further on we looked for "chulpas colgantes" which are Inca tombs suspended in impossible places on the top of cliffs. However as we did not know what they looked like, we did not know what to look for!
Cruz del Condor is a very touristy spot and the guidebooks say that it can be teaming with coachloads of travellers. But we had it to ourselves. However low cloud had crept in and there were no condors. Nevertheless the view to the bottom of the canyon, 1200m away was impressive enough.
On the way back many farmers were walking along the road back to the villages. Many had spades and the women had large bundles on their backs. A young woman in traditional dress with a baby wrapped up in a sling on her back, waved us down and asked for a lift to her village. Later an old couple with heavy bundles also asked for a lift and they got in the back of the pick up. We were amazed the distance they had intended to walk. The young woman was about 10 km away from home.
We let them off and the old man tried to pay us. We, naturally, refused.
A lorry was parked across the road and some lads were trying to tether cows in it.
Back at the hotel, the staff had prepared a meal of quinoa, which is a traditional Peruvian pulse, with vegetables for us. It is low season so there was only us and a canadian couple staying here. The meal was very nice.
There is no wifi here but the owner offered to lend up his lappy. As it is only on a dongle and very slow we have decided to upload photos later.
http://www.killawasilodge.com/
Perhaps you should have a go at the Dakar Rally next time.
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