Saturday, 8 January 2011

Down hill from here - Andagua to Majes


We both had possibly the worst night's sleep ever. The room was cavelike and we left the toilet light on all night to give a bit of comfort. The sheets were heavy, but not warm; the bed was tiny and there was only one pillow each (Joan likes three or four). The fitted sheet kept coming off and there was a plastic sheet covering the mattress.

For nearly four hours Joan could not sleep and instead paced the courtyard with the ducks for company, staring up at the Milky Way and an upside down Orion. (Take That on the IPod helped too!) Kevin slept sporadically. Eventually both of us dropped off, which was a blessing.

Breakfast was at the same Cafe as the night before and the lady brought bread, jam, cafe con leche and cheese. The highlight was fresh pineapple juice mixed with sugary hot water. Very delicious.

After settling our bill for the room, we headed into the Valley of the Volcanoes. The road dropped swiftly, into lava fields and a series of volcanic cones. It was very hot and unforgiving. The road seemed to keep dropping and after 20 km, we decided it would be better to move on than risk spending another night in Andagua.

So we took a few photos of the cones and the town, and headed back towards Arequipa. The road did not seem to be the way we came in to Andagua. It kept rising unrelentlessly, steeply up a mountainside. Some doubt set in so we called at a farm and the old lady there confirmed that this was the road to Arequipa. The road kept rising - again wide with steep drops to the side. Eventually it flattened out - much to our relief. In the distance was the mountain Nevada Corupuna - over 6000 m -and we were not much below. At the highest part people made piles of stones to ask the mountain gods for safe passage.

Then we stared to descend................... Five hours later, we were still zig-zagging down the mountains to the Majes valley. We met crazy lorry drivers and ill balanced buses on the way. We thought the road was so mad that we were lost, but again we were on the right route. After nearly eight hours of driving we called in to the Majes River Lodge - a modest but comfortable hotel with a Tyrannasaurus Rex tastefully on the entrance.

The owners, Julio and Durby, were away in town but Julio's 85 year old mum welcomed us. She phoned Julio on her mobile and he headed back.

We were exhausted but when Julio arrived he proudly showed us his hotel, including his winery and Pisco still. He was born in the Majes valley, and has retired here with his second wife.


For dinner Durby made us an omelette with chips, veg and palta. We drank Julio's own wine and Pisco. His neighbours had called round to celebrate the Epiphany. They too want to build a hotel.

We excused ourselves and slept deeply.

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