Lake Titicaca

Floating island made of reeds


This morning we were picked up from our hotel and taken to the port to go for a half day trip to the Uros Islands. They are artificial floating islands on Lake Titicaca, which guides tell us is the world's largest, highest navigable lake at over 12,000 feet.

We were the first on the bus and it picked up at a range of other hotels across Puno. At the quay there were many other boats waiting. It took about twenty-five minutes to cross the four kilometres to Uros. On the way we saw a boat made in Birmingham that was disassembled in Arica and shipped by train and mule to Lake Titicaca.

Also we saw a former gaol for Peruvian political prisoners which is now a five star hotel.

Former gaol turned 5 star hotel

There are 52 floating islands and they allegedly the home to 1,500 people. The people speak mainly Aymara and the islands were created when the Incas took power and the locals did not want to have to deal with them.

As we approached we could see women lined up on each island in brightly coloured dresses. They were urging the boats to land at their particular isle. The better tour operators rotate which island they visit to make it fairer.

Stepping on to the island we visit, it was a bit like walking across a water bed. In a carefully rehearsed performance, the islanders sang us a song, showed how the islands were constructed and showed what food they ate. (Mainly fish, dried potatoes and the reeds themselves.)


After that individual took us to there huts to show us their lives. The young man hosting us was 23 years old with a wife and small child.

Our host,his wife and young son

He explained he was a fisherman, but the family made money from the tourist visits. If he was lucky the boats would visit twice a week. He lived in a one room hut, maybe three metres by five. The bed took up the most part and the reed roof had holes in it. Last night it rained hard so they must have got wet. However he also had a solar panel so he had a light bulb, radio and very small black and white TV. We bought a tapestry from his wife, more to ensure that they had some income that week.

Seemingly the number of families living there is increasing, encouraged by the tourist trade, like us, visiting, but one could not help worry about the sustainability of this lifestyle. There already seemed to be too many families desperate for boats to visit them.

After that we were offered a trip on a kontiki style boat to the main island where there are stalls, restaurants, schools and a health centre. Two gentlemen rowed us across.

Heading back, we sat on the top deck of the boat, until the crew saw a police boat approaching. The we had to go on the lower deck and if you were outside put on a life jacket.
Along the quayside were several basic cafes। We called in at one for lunch, and ordered a beer and sandwich. The beer came but the young girl serving (8-10 years old?) said there was no bread.

An annoyance as we sat was the number of people coming round trying to sell things, playing Peruvian pipes or just begging।

Hungry we headed back to the hotel via a tricycle taxi। It was quite unnerving as he hassled his way through the traffic, but we got to the hotel and he overcharged us. (A common occurance in Peru. There is one rate for locals and another for extraneros like us.) Still we got his photo!

After a recovery break in the afternoon, we headed in to town for an early dinner. As we approached the centre of town we could see lights and hear a loud speaker. Many people were gathered and waving flags. We could not hear very well the speeches being made, but were a bit perturbed to see the riot police had turned out en masse. However it all seemed well tempered enough, and when we returned an hour or so later, everything was being dismantled. We suppose it is a bit like the rallies going on about the Tory cuts in England at the moment. The police always have a presence.

Blogger.com is being a pain and isn’t uploading pictures today. Will try again later.